History and romance meet at 13000 feet
While driving from Dirang, a small hill station in Arunachal Pradesh towards Tawang set high in the Eastern Himalayas , the mountains curve as River Kameng flows along with you.
Sela lake
If you continue on your way snow-clad mountains would give you company until you reach a glacier which opens to a gate guarded by dragons with bright colored flags fluttering all around.
You are now at Sela Pass, where war and romance met at 13,700 feet above sea level. And a tale of tragedy unfolds amidst the scattered snow.
Indo-China war - 1962
The troops of Garhwal Rifles had been given the command to return back from Battle of Nuranang, because of the ever raising casualty figures. As per the local legend,Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat refrained from leaving his post and decided to single handedly confront the gigantic Chinese army.
Sela was a local girl who loved Jaswant against her father’s wishes. When Jaswant decided to fight the whole Chinese battalion alone, Sela along with her sister Nura, decided to partake in the battle.
So, our soldier along with the Monpa girls – Sela and Nura set up weapons at different places, creating an illusion that Indian soldiers were massive in numbers. Jaswant Singh Rawat along with Sela and Nura used to run at different spots and fire at the enemies. The attack of Jaswant was proving fatal for Chinese. Apparently they killed about 300 Chinese in a span of three days . The Chinese were clueless about the size of Indian army.
But a betrayal proved fatal for Jaswant. The person who was supplying rations to Jaswant was caught by Chinese and he revealed all the details of Jaswant Singh Rawat and his two comrades – Sela and Nura. Burning with vengeance at the thought the one man had made a mockery out of them, the Chinese army retaliated in which Sela was killed in a grenade burst.
Jaswant was outnumbered and realizing that his capture was imminent, he shot himself. The Chinese battalion was so furious of this Indian soldier that they chopped his head off and took it with them. Later a ceasefire took place between India and China. The Chinese army was so amazed by his courage that they returned the head of the soldier back to Indian army along with a brass bust in honour of this brave soldier.
The post where Jaswant fought his last battle is now named as Jaswant Garh. His personal belongings are still kept safe even today at Jaswant Garh. Though the room is empty, soldiers place the morning bed tea at 4.30 AM, prepare breakfast at 9 am and dinner at 7 pm. The people of army still believe that Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat still guards the post as a spirit and is been guiding Indian soldiers in dreams. He is the only soldier who is promoted to post of Major general after his death. His salary is credited every month and most strange of all, he is even granted official leaves.
Close by is Sela pass and Sela lake named after his beloved, who fought and was martyred along with him.
While writing this blog I realized that almost every destination tells a story – of love, of betrayal, of patriotism and of limitless courage, like the tale of Sela and Jaswant.
The two articles I used for researching this article are :
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